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  • 500 km

Sary Tash


Same mantra today "What could possibly go wrong?

Any mountain pass, even 3600 meter, is no big deal when the flooring is perfect. Winding roads, many Gers, ( the equivalent of a Mongol Yurt) and friendly people everywhere. Kids run on the road to wave with all their efforts. They literally shake their arms off.

Sheep herds, they are the only obstacles you find on the road. Hundreds of them. But the shepherds are nice and helpful high up their horses. After all it's a nice distraction. Even though there is no need for it. Three hours later I arrived in Sary Tash @3300m. A small village, and and the only crossroad between China, Dushanbe and Murghab. No need to stop, in less than 2 hours I will reach the Tajik border, from where I can look for a place to sleep. And tomorrow I am in Khorogh, on my way to Wahkan corridor and maybe a footstep into Afghanistan.

Only, if I had done my homework better, I could have known that this border is only open to Kyrgyz and Tajik citizens. No others!!! I was kindly sent back to where I came from by the customs. Later on, I remembered that I had read about this on the Caravanistan website.

Whatever, it's to late now.

I got my votes on my homework at the border and it was a f****** F. Not even a pass. ;-)

It meant I had to go back 150 km to Sary Tash and find shelter and a place to sleep because snow was covering my windscreen and the visor of my helmet.

I shouldn't be picky finding shelter in these conditions, but my first impression was: where did I end up this time. But it always takes a while to adapt, and at the end I found myself at home with these nice people. A little boy called me Baba, (his mum forbid him though) and always sat on my lap.

Three elder girls where among the cutest in the whole village.

They cooked a meal for me and heated up the house. There was internet, I even could watch the MotoGp race.

But meanwhile, the drizzle snow meant serious business as it got dark. This meant that tomorrow my only way out of here was snow capped.

China is no option and the Pamir Highway will definitely be closed.


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