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  • Dietrik VR

Murghab


The weather has cleared, the sun is shining brightly with only a few clouds on the horizon.


Today is my day, my last chance to climb the Pamir Highway. It is going to be all or nothing.
 In three days I must be in Shymkent heading west again.


I left early, at least to my terms, and at noon I already entered Sary Tash at the petrol station. I might become a regular customer.

I was recognized as 'The Italian', but unfortunately no extra benefits. Maybe next time. To get tho Murghab , you have to cross a border, which goes with a border control.

Kyrgyzstan and Tajikstan, Gorno Kabakhshan Autonomous Oblast.

The Kyrgyz side didn't pose any problems. Tajiks on the other hand...

It started with a disinfection fee for the motorbike, 10$. No arguing, I pay . I have no time to lose, and luckily no disinfection was done!

Then registration fee of the motorcycle: 1000 Som

Next, some bloke took me apart and asked for 5$ , for no reason... I refused and mysteriously he accepted. At last , a witty guy completed the last formality with a quarantine fee of another 5$ We shook hands and my border crossing was complete.

All of this is of course a big scam, and non of those actions and fees are legal. But what do you do, I want go to the Pamir Highway.

I don't travel 10.000 km to save a few bucks..... Anyway, I am where I wanted to be. I hope they make good use of the money.

Between both border controls there is about 20 km of no-mans land and rising up to 4200 where the statue of the 'Steinbock' is placed.

There was a whole lot of mud due to the melting snow, but I've been worse a few days ago.

More south I drove by lake Kara Kul. And I have never seen anything likewise. A deep intense blue, caused by the altitude and therefore the clear skies. It took me about 3 hours to reach Murghab through majestic landscapes like never seen before.

The highest point of Pamir is somewhat disappointing, 4665m and not even a sign.

The road just goes back down again.

I though must consider this among he most beautiful rides I ever made. The snaps I took, have definitely earned a place on the fireplace mantel.

Life lasting, and in an expensive frame!

I spent the night in the Pamir guesthouse in Murghab. Where else...


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